By the time it tracked north to the Magdalens, Dorian was downgraded to a post-tropical cyclone, but winds gusting up to 120 kilometers per hour raised waves as high as five-story office buildings that tore apart summer cottages, collapsed coastal roads, and left sailboats heaped on the shoreface like plastic toys in a drained bathtub. Almost three years ago, the Category 5 hurricane Dorian devastated the Bahamas with some of the strongest winds ever to make landfall in the Atlantic. But the waters of the Gulf rarely remain calm for long. Today is a blue-sky idyll, with light winds from the southwest urging the warm saltwater breakers onto the shore. From the passenger seat, Catherine Leblanc-Jomphe, my guide for the day, tells me to pull over next to an abandoned lobster processing plant.
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A couple of dozen fishing boats bob behind concrete breakwaters. The following day, I drive my rental car to the island of Grande-Entrée, where the pavement of Route 199 runs out in the parking lot of a small harbor. The plane touches down on the island of Havre-aux-Maisons, which is linked to Cap-aux-Meules, the island where the big car ferries dock, by the archipelago’s only highway. Green meadows meticulously outlined in white sand conjure up an Ireland unmoored: emerald isles that somehow seem to have drifted to the other side of the Atlantic. The impression fades as the twin-propeller plane banks toward a runway on the central landmass of the archipelago, which consists of a dozen islands in the middle of the Gulf of St. The sky is the same shade of silvery blue as the utterly calm sea, so that Île Brion, an uninhabited island first charted by French explorer Jacques Cartier in 1534, appears to float in the atmosphere like a Shangri-La levitated from the Earth’s surface. Article body copyĪn optical illusion makes my first sighting of Quebec’s Magdalen Islands, through a blur of blades, ethereal. Listen now, download, or subscribe to “Hakai Magazine Audio Edition” through your favorite podcast app. This article is also available in audio format. Stream or download audio For this article
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J| 4,800 words, about 24 minutes Share this article Photo by Bonnie Jo Mount/ Washington Post via Getty Images Living in a Doomed Paradise Where the Sea Consumes Cottages, Cliffs, and the A&W Drive-Thru Quebec’s Magdalen islanders face a stark choice: resist, adapt, or give in to the ravenous sea. The fragile dunes, lagoons, marshes, and sandstone cliffs are all at risk of being lost. Lawrence are at the mercy of rising sea levels and increasing storm surges. Quebec’s Magdalen Islands in the Gulf of St.